# How to Sew Welt Pockets: Standard Construction vs. French Seam Finish

**By My Store Admin** · 2026-06-23

When designing our first sewing pattern featuring welt pockets, the [Elova Top,](https://openstudiopatterns.com/products/elova-top?variant=47252341325963 "Elova Top Sewing Pattern") we incorporated several high-end construction techniques, including French seams. We wanted the welt pocket instructions to be accessible to sewists making welt pockets for the first time, while also offering a more advanced option for those who prefer the pocket finish to match the refined interior details of the garment. As a result, we developed two construction methods: a standard approach and a French seam variation that creates a beautifully finished pocket interior.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Welt_French_Seam_landscape_img.jpg?v=1782232784)

For the [Elova Top](https://openstudiopatterns.com/products/elova-top?variant=47252341325963 "Elova Top Sewing Pattern") release, we assembled our largest pattern testing group to date and came away confident that both welt pocket construction methods are successful and accessible options. Our testers represented a wide range of sewing experience—from those making welt pockets for the first time, to sewists who had struggled with them in the past, to experienced makers who regularly sew welt pockets. The feedback was overwhelmingly positive: beginners found the process approachable, while more advanced sewists appreciated the French seam variation for its refined finish and the opportunity to expand their skills.

This page covers both welt pocket construction methods with detailed step-by-step instructions and accompanying video tutorials. Follow along with your preferred method, and find the video tutorial linked at the end of each section.

## Our Standard Welt Pocket Method

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step1.jpg?v=1782236994)

### Step 1:

Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the welt piece and the wrong side of the pocket opening on the garment.  
Match the drill marks on the right side of the welt pieces to the right side of the front bodice pieces and pin in place. 

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step2_e48a35e0-bf79-4fca-8797-94fd13b6e4ea.jpg?v=1782237050)

### Step 2:

Stitch around the rectangle drawn on the wrong side of the welt piece, sewing through all layers. This will become the pocket opening.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step3_1a93e823-aa6a-4a7b-a5bf-454e38af1a26.jpg?v=1782237075)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step4_3d63da0c-01c1-4046-ab70-7a8db963f867.jpg?v=1782237090)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step5_4d8b949b-f5d7-468c-9dcb-ee5c76d2cb02.jpg?v=1782237143)

### Step 3:

Cut through all layers along the cut line drawn inside the stitched rectangle. Clip right up to each corner, being careful not to cut through rectangular stitchline.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step6_e72dd847-45f9-45ae-aaca-b22d2ebc43e6.jpg?v=1782237157)

### Step 4:

Press all seams of the rectangular pocket opening open.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step7_88d9cb12-85a2-4a2c-8404-6276784a04a4.jpg?v=1782237191)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step8_2e67c3fe-baf9-4ca8-b1f7-f480da8f7a35.jpg?v=1782237203)

### Step 5:

Turn the welt piece through the pocket opening to the wrong side of the garment and press flat.

You have now created a window for the pocket opening.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step9_dc559084-9405-4991-92e1-78af468a6f10.jpg?v=1782237216)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step10_23c2f57a-6bf9-4f83-8b35-f1a7be058bd4.jpg?v=1782237227)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step11_6aa75a04-96b8-4c25-ab89-eaacc28af485.jpg?v=1782237239)

### Step 6:

Form the welt by folding at the lower notches and matching them to the notches above. The fold being created should meet the top of the pocket opening.

Press in place.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step12_b513e9cd-84e0-4653-8664-d1ba059df532.jpg?v=1782237255)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step13_b3965a89-f801-4d0f-982c-a3240124c8f6.jpg?v=1782237267)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step14_3f6f2ebb-efe9-4530-9a91-04b3c2b02e2f.jpg?v=1782237282)

### Step 7:

Flip the garment so the right side is face up. Peel back the garment on the left side of the welt opening  to reveal the ends of the folded welt piece. Stitch a vertical line through all of the folded layers, including the triangular tabs. The stitch line should be as close to the pocket opening seam as possible.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step15_2f2950db-346c-420f-95e4-f72b9e9b3555.jpg?v=1782237299)

### Step 8:

Repeat those steps on the right side of the pocket opening.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step16_139c745a-76f3-4010-8f52-de29d345c5f9.jpg?v=1782237316)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step18_444ab70d-bc70-417e-b956-684026bd5e21.jpg?v=1782237345)

### Step 9:

Optional: With right side face up, topstitch around the outside of the pocket opening, 1/16” (2 mm) away from the edge. Keep the folds of the welt flat and orderly on the WS of the garment while topstitching.

Bring thread tails to the WS of the garment before trimming off.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step19_01283b80-557a-4586-80f7-d239760d78cc.jpg?v=1782244290)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step20_dd05179c-b7e2-4e53-aa90-a27994c2d16d.jpg?v=1782237357)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step21_a270e3ad-da0f-4a6c-9b57-5c31effb1726.jpg?v=1782237369)

### Step 10:

Match right side of pocket bag piece to bottom of welt and pocketing opening seam allowance.  
Attach with 1/2” (13 mm) SA and finish edge.  
Press pocket bag and seam allowance down toward hem.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step22_d02198a8-379a-4bec-853c-eb10a26e96ad.jpg?v=1782237426) ![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step23_ee5aee4c-0465-4165-83dc-b3a149d4fc52.jpg?v=1782237452)

### Step 11:

Match right side of unattached pocket bag end to top of welt and pocket opening seam allowance.  
Attach with 1/2” (13 mm) SA and finish edge.  

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step24_79e88abb-96a2-451e-84ad-2dcf3f54ae9a.jpg?v=1782237473)

### Step 12:

Close the sides of the pocket bag with 1/2” (13 mm) seam allowance and finish edges.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Standard-welt-pocket-tutorial-step25_17788ab2-66fd-4cc0-b975-a93da58f094a.jpg?v=1782237490)

### Watch the video tutorial [HERE](https://youtu.be/C2c0KIbdbOQ "Welt Pocket Tutorial")!

## Our French Seam Welt Pocket Method

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step1-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782249989)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step2-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250016)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step3-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250036)

### Step 1:

Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the welt piece and the wrong side of the pocket opening on the garment.  
Match the drill marks on the right side of the welt pieces to the right side of the garment and pin in place. 

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step5-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250053)

### Step 2:

Match the drill marks on the right side of the pocket piece to the wrong side of the welt and pin in place. The welt piece will be in between the garment and the pocket layers.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step6-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250086)

### Step 3:

Stitch around the rectangle drawn on the wrong side of the pocket piece, sewing through all layers. This will become the pocket opening.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step7-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250104)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step8-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250123)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step9-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250138)

### Step 4:

Cut through all layers along the cut line drawn inside the stitched rectangle. Clip right up to each corner, being careful not to cut through rectangular stitchline.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step10-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250156)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step11-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250174)

### Step 5:

Press seams open on all sides of the pocket opening.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step12-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250196)

### Step 6:

Bring the welt and pocket pieces through the pocket opening to the wrong side of the garment.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step13-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250208)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step14-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250235)

### Step 7:

Press seams flat around the pocket opening.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step15-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250249)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step16-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250272)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step17-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250295)

### Step 8:

Form the welt by folding the lower part of the welt piece so the fold meets the top edge of the pocket opening. Press in place.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step18-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250315)

### Step 9:

Pre-press the the bottom edge of the welt piece 1/4" (6mm) under the folded welt.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step19-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250332)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step20-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250348)

### Step 10:

Turn garment face up, topstitch around the outside of the sides and bottom of the pocket opening, 1/16” (2 mm) away from the edge. Keep the folds of the welt flat and orderly on the WS of the garment while topstitching. The top edge of the pocket opening with be topstitched at a later step.  
Bring all thread tails to wrong side of garment before trimming.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step21-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250365)

### Step 11:

Turn garment with wrong side facing you and move the garment layers out from under the pocket bag and welt.   
Hide the pre-pressed seam allowance by stitching it to the pocket bag. Stitchline will run 1/16" (2mm) away from folded edge.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step22-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250381)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step23-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250397)

### Step 12:

French seam the sides of the pocket bag by folding the pocket bag in half lengthwise matching the wrong sides together. The bulk of the garment will be coming out of the top of the pocket.  
Stitch the sides of the pocket bag together with 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.   
Trim the seam allowance by half.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step24-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250410)

### Step 13:

Bring the pocket to the wrong side of the garment. Press seams flat and push out corners.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step25-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250428)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step26-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250448)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step27-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250465)

### Step 14:

Bring the pocket bag tops out through the pocket opening.  
Stitch the layers together with 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.   
Trim the seam allowance by half.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step28-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250489)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step29-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250506)

### Step 15:

Push everything back inside the pocket opening. Press the seam flat and push out the top corners. Press pocket bag flat.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step30-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250521)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step31-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250536)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step32-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250550)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step33-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250564)

### Step 16:

Finish the French seams by stitching along the sides and top of the pocket bag with 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step34-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250578)

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step35-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250594)

### Step 17:

Turn the garment with the right side facing you. Finish topstitching the top edge of the pocket opening, 1/16" (2mm) away from edge. Bring all thread tails to wrong side of garment before trimming.

![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0741/1325/3515/files/Step36-French-seam-welt-pocket-tutorial.jpg?v=1782250606)

### Watch the video tutorial [HERE](https://youtu.be/woaBdZqjJX8 "French Seam Welt Pocket Tutorial")!

**Tags:** Sewing Techniques

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> Source: [Open Studio Patterns](https://open-studio-patterns-2.myshopify.com/blogs/news/how-to-sew-welt-pockets-standard-construction-vs-french-seam-finish)