Model: Abbey Cerek / Photography by Paul Strabbing
If you’ve been following along, you know we released the Elova Top earlier this summer. You might have noticed from the photos that one of the versions looks a little bit different than the original. Today, we're sharing a pattern hack for those of you who want a simpler shell top, or for anyone who has already sewn the original design and wants to squeeze another look out of the same pattern. This specific modification removes the center front buttons and moves them to the left shoulder seam. This version is great if you plan to use a thinner, drapey fabric that might not have enough structure to support a center front button placket. Below, you'll find a full video tutorial walking you through the process, along with step-by-step written instructions and screenshots so you can follow along at your own pace.
Pattern Adjustments
-Trace BACK YOKE and mirror the opposite side to get a full piece
-Draw the original seam line on the left shoulder (that seam has 3/8" SA).
-Extend the cut line 1.25" (31.75 mm) up from the original seam line, not the cut line.
-Match the shoulder seams of the front and back shoulder and use the front neckline and armhole curve to draw the cut lines where the back shoulder will overlap with the front shoulder.
-Mark the button placement line on the left shoulder, 3/8" (10 mm) up from the original shoulder seam line.
-Trace FRONT BODICE and mirror the opposite side to get a full piece
-Draw the center front fold line by locating the button placement marks on the pattern. This is the new grainline.
-Draw in the original seam line on the left front shoulder.
-Fold along the seam line on the left shoulder of the BACK YOKE and match it with the front left shoulder seam.
-Mark on the FRONT BODICE shoulder where the button placement line will be, using the BACK YOKE piece.
-Extend the cut line 1" (2.5 cm) up from the original seam line on the front shoulder, not the cut line.
-Fold the front shoulder along the original seam line to create a double layer. This double layer will reinforce the fabric so it can properly support the buttons.
-Cut along the neckline and armhole to get the correct shape.
Sewing Steps
The video tutorial for this pattern variation only covers the steps that are different from the original design variation. The full video tutorial for the original Elova Top can be found HERE. Use the original instructions for any steps that are not mentioned in this pattern variation. The order of operations for assembling is listed below, but we recommend using the video tutorial as a reference.
-Begin with stay stitching the necklines and armholes, as well as fusing the welt pocket pieces if you're using them.
-Attach bias to the front neckline, but wait to complete it with topstitching until a future step. Trim the end of the bias so it end before the fold line on the front left shoulder.
-Close the darts.
-Form the back pleat and stitch in place.
-Attach the inner yoke to the back bodice.
-Attach the outer yoke to the back bodice.
-Attached the side seams.
-Attach bias to the left armhole, but wait to complete it with topstitching until a future step - same as the neckline.
-Fold front left shoulder right sides together along fold line, with the 1/4" SA folded up.
-Stitch along the neckline and armhole, with the stitch lines on the inside of the existing stitch lines from when then bias was attached. Be sure to catch the SA that is folded up so it will be naturally tucked under when turned out to the right side.
-Turn right side out, press flat and topstitch the folded edge closed.
-Topstitch the neckline but leave the left AH bias finishing for a later step.
-Attach the inner yoke and front bodice at the right shoulder seam.
-Burrito Method: Bring the yokes right sides together, encasing the garment. Finish the shoulder seams and neckline. The raw edges of the back left shoulder seam will get finished in this step as well. Trim corners and turn garment out to right side.
-Finish the right armhole according to the original pattern instructions.
-Finish the left armhole by neatly folding the raw end over the finished shoulder seam and then bring the bias all the way to the WS of the AH. Topstitched closed.
-Attach buttons to the front left shoulder and buttonholes to the back left shoulder.
Watch the full-length video tutorial below:
