Drafting Choice Pattern Variations
Are you ready to dive into designing with the Choice Pattern? The video and written instructions will prompt you when, where, and how to make pattern manipulations to the original base pattern. You’ll find some design inspiration—with descriptions—within our instructions. Today, we’re breaking down another of the design variations to demonstrate how the original pattern pieces transform into new looks.
Collared shirt with added fullness and front ties
In the Choice Pattern instructions, you will learn a method called “slash and spread” to add fullness to pattern pieces. This step can be done either before or after making changes to the length; however, our instructions guide you to make this adjustment first. Begin by deciding how much fullness you’d like to add to the sweep of the hem, and incorporate that into the front and back bodice pieces. This method can also be used on sleeves. The look above includes a collar, short sleeves, and a front tie design detail.
Adding fullness is the only pattern manipulation necessary for this look, assuming the length remains unchanged. Changing the length would require an adjustment to the interfacing pieces, which is a quick fix. The images below feature each piece needed to assemble this look.
Pattern pieces from left to right: Front Right Bodice, Front Left Bodice, Yoke, Back Bodice, Short Sleeve, Collar Stand, Collar, Left Interfacing, Right Interfacing, Front Tie Channel and Front Ties.
Collarless dress with added fullness, lantern sleeves and front ties
In this variation, you will use the slash and spread method to add fullness as well as add length. Start with adding the desired fullness. Then, take those new pieces and add length for a dress. The front ties in this image are assembled the same way as the shirt version. However, the ties are fed into the channels in the opposite direction - a decision that can be decided at the end. Long ties that exit out of the side, rather than the center, can either hang down the length of the dress or be used as a waist tie. Use any sleeve variation, like the lantern sleeve pictured here which is included in the file package.
The front placket interfacing pieces will need adjustment anytime the length is altered. A front facing piece is also included in the file package, but may need to be drafted to match your new neckline if enough volume was added to change the shape of the neckline. Don’t worry, we show you how to do that in the instructions too.
Pattern pieces from left to right: Front Right Dress, Front Left Dress, Yoke, Back Dress, Upper Lantern Sleeve, Lower Lantern Sleeve, Front Facing, Front Tie Channels, Front Ties, Left Interfacing and Right Interfacing
Collared dress with decreased fullness, short sleeves and side seam pockets
The base pattern comes with a decent amount of fullness in the bodice, but you may want to reduce it to a more slimmer silhouette. Our instructions show you how to slash the bodice and and remove fullness, while preserving the measurements along the neckline and armholes.
Be sure to only decrease the fullness enough to accommodate the widest part of the body, especially when making it a dress. The blue dress in the image above has side seam pockets, which is easily done by adding the pocket extensions as mentioned in the written instructions. Those, of course, are always optional.
Pattern pieces from left to right: Front Right Dress, Front Left Dress, Yoke, Back Dress, Short Sleeve, Collar Stand, Collar, Patch Pocket, Left Interfacing and Right Interfacing
Collared crop top with decreased fullness, no sleeves and patch pockets
Here’s another look with fullness taken out of the bodice pieces, but the length has been shortened this time. There’s no worry about how it will fit around the hip area because the hem falls above the natural waist. The hem is a straight line along front and back, so all we did was determine where we wanted it to fall and cut it off. The base pattern is already drafted with the armhole seam dropping slightly down the bicep, which is beautifully demonstrated in the image above.
The raw edge of the armhole will be finished with binding around the opening. Watch our instructional video on binding necklines for a detailed demonstration of this technique. The method shown there applies perfectly to this application as well.
Pattern pieces from left to right: Front Right Bodice, Front Left Bodice, Yoke, Back Bodice, Patch Pocket, Short Sleeve, Collar Stand, Collar, Armhole Binding, Left Interfacing and Right Interfacing
This is the third variation highlight for the Choice Pattern, and there will be many more coming to this same page. We designed this pattern to help build your confidence in making adjustments and pattern hacks. While it’s not intended to turn you into an expert patternmaker overnight, it will help you develop valuable skills for customizing all the patterns in your collection. Read more about the Choice Pattern here! As you become more comfortable with these modifications, you’ll discover new ways to create unique, personalized garments that perfectly express your style and vision. Show us your work on social media with #ChoicePattern.